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Kayseri Province, Develi District: Examples of Traditional Cuisine

9. DABAKA BÖREĞİ

Prepare the dough as above, and divide into walnut-sized pieces. Roll out to 2 mm thick, and fold in half over filling. Shape with the edge of a plate and fry in hot oil.

H. TATLILAR - SWEETS

1. FINCAN TATLISI – “COFFEE CUP” PASTRY

Ingredients:

1 recipe muska böreği dough, above
2 c sugar
Juice of ½ lemon
1 c water
1 c vegetable oil

Boil the sugar, water and lemon juice together into a syrup, remove from heat and set aside to cool.

Meanwhile, make the muska böreği dough and roll it out to 2 mm in thickness. Fold in half, then cut with a Turkish coffee cup or similar sized round cutter. Fry in hot oil and place in syrup. 3

2. DOLAZ

Ingredients:

3 T butter
2 T semolina
2 T wheat starch
3 T sugar
2 c water
1 c crushed walnuts

On medium heat, fry the semolina in the butter until it begins to brown. Add the wheat starch and mix well. Add the water and sugar, and cook until it reaches a pudding-like consistency. Pour into serving dishes, and top with melted butter and crushed walnuts, serve warm.

3. İNCİR DOLMASI – STUFFED FIGS

Ingredients:

1 package (1/2 kg) dry Turkish figs
1 c crushed walnuts
½ c sugar
1 c milk or water

Soak the dry figs in hot water. Remove the stems, and with a finger, open a hollow from the place where the stem was. Mix the crushed walnuts and sugar, and fill the figs with this mixture. Arrange the figs in a pan to fit, and pour the 1 c of milk or water over the top, cook in the oven till the liquid is absorbed. 6

4. KAYSI KAVURMASI – SAUTEED APRICOTS

Ingredients:

250 gr dried apricots
1 c crushed walnuts
1 T butter
1 T flour

Simmer the apricots in water to cover. Meanwhile, sauté the flour in the butter until lightly brown. Add the apricots to this mixture, and serve with crushed walnuts. 7

H. YABANÎ BİTKİLER – WILD PLANTS

1. Plants of which the stems are eaten:

a) YAĞLI AĞAÇ - ???

Yağlı ağaç is a plant which forms a rosette of fuzzy leaves on the ground. Out of the center rises a square stem with symmetrically dividing branches and white or pale blue flowers. It is almost globe shaped when in bloom. The flowering stems are cut before the flowers open, and are peeled before eating. It is very flavorful and very popular.

b) BOĞA DİKENİ – ERYNGO     

Probably Eryngium pretense, this is a spiny perennial plant. The young stems are gathered and peeled in the spring before they bloom.

c) KANGAL

Probably Onopordum acanthium or O. illyricum, this is a spiny plant from one to two meters in height, with fuzzy white leaves and large purple flowers. The stems are cut before they have grown too tall and hardened. These are peeled and eaten.

d) ENGIR

These are the newly emerging tips of grape vines, which grow in excess following pruning in the spring. They are peeled and eaten. Their tart flavor is especially popular with children and pregnant women. 2

2. PLANTS OF WHICH THE LEAVES ARE EATEN

a) KUZUKULAĞI – SORREL

A perennial plant with a sour flavor, used commonly in salads. The leaves and new shoots are eaten.

b) OĞLAK KULAĞI

Another species similar to sorrel which is often more commonly found growing between rocks than in soil. It is also sour, but not as popular as sorrel.

c) YEMLİK – GOATSBEARD, SALSIFY

The young leaves of this yellow-flowered plant are used as a salad; when the plant comes into bloom the hairy leaves become hard and bitter. It grows mostly on cultivated land. If the fresh new leaves are put into bulgur pilaf, it is called yemlik pilavı.

d) MERCİMENEK (MADIMAK) – KNOTWEED

As throughout Anatolia, this plant is also common in Develi. This low, spreading perennial is most common on uncultivated ground. It may be eaten raw or cooked as a vegetable. It is cooked with bulgur.

e) KURSALIK

This plant in the spinach family is both eaten raw and cooked like spinach.

f) ÇITLIK – WILD LETTUCE

There are two plants known as çıtlık, “white” and “black” çıtlık. Both are in the lettuce family and are important salad plants. They grow as a rosette in the spring, giving way to an ascending flowering stalk. The stems of white çıtlık are brilliant white, while those of black çıtlık are fuzzy with a grayish appearance.

g) EFELİK

A perennial plant with broad leaves. The leaves are gathered and boiled while fresh, and made into dolma similar to chard.

h) SU TERESİ – WATER CRESS

A wild plant of streamsides and wet areas. Its leaves are eaten as a salad.

i) YARPUZ – WATER MINT

Another plant found in wet places, it is chewed to rid the mouth of odors, and is sometimes used in place of mint. 2

3. PLANTS OF WHICH THE FRUITS AND SEEDS ARE EATEN

a) KUŞBURNU – ROSE HIPS

These are gathered from wild roses that grow in the mountains, mostly Rosa canina or dog rose. The fruits are gathered off the dense bushes from the time the fruit begins to turn red until it is fully ripe. Its white or pale pink flowers are also eaten.

b) ALIÇ – MYRTLE

Various species of myrtle growing wild in the mountains bear either red or pale yellow-green fruits which are gathered in the fall. Eating too many can cause an upset stomach.

c) EBEGÜMECİ – MALLOW

The still-green seedpods of the very common mallow plant (Malva sylvestris) are gathered and eaten.

d) BİTLİ BAKLA – WILD PEA

This is an annual plant in the bean family which grows on cultivated land. The pods are gathered fresh and shelled like peas. Although they are tasty, they leave a bad smell in the mouth afterwards. 2

NAMES OF SOME OF THE UTINSILS USED IN FOOD PREPARATION IN DEVELI:

1. AĞIZLIK: A stone with a hole in the middle, put over the mouth of the well.
2. ALA: A front-closing apron
3. ARISTAK: Shelf.
4. AŞIRMA: Large copper bucket.
5. AVADAN: Coffee cooler.
6. BODU: Water jug.
7. BARDAK: Glass water jug.
8. BORAÇ: Wooden container for carrying water.
9. BAŞLIK: The adobe implement used to close the ventilation hole of the tandır.
10. BODUÇ: A small clay vessel used to store butter and yogurt.
11. CIBO: Wide, open-mouthed basket.
12. ÇİNGİL: Copper bucket.
13. ÇÖMLEK: A clay casserole used to cook food in the tandır.
14. ÇÖMÇE: A long-handled ladle used to serve stew-type foods.
15. DOLAK: A vessel out of thin wood, used to store butter.
16. DÖVEÇEK: A wooden pestle.
17. DÖVEÇ: A wooden mortar and pestle used to crush garlic.
18. EGİÇ: An implement used to cut honeycomb or scrape dough from a board.
19. GÖZER: A gril with wide holes.
20. EVRAÇ: A curved, flat piece of wood used in cooking yufka.
21. HEDİRGEÇ: Long iron rods placed under pots when cooking over a wood fire.
22. HAFT: Su yatağı.
23. HERANI: Small pot.
24. KEMIÇ: Strainer, colander.
25. İLANÇE: A small copper basin.
26. KUULEK: A yogurt crock able to hold 5- 6 kg. of yogurt.
27. KİRPİKLİ: A copper dish with fluted edges.
28. LENGER: A copper vessel, flatter than a tabak..
29. LÜNGÜR: The depression in the pressing room, where the grape juice collects.
30. MAŞRAFA: A copper drinking cup with a tinned interior.
31. PÜSÜKLÜK: A screen cupboard for storing food.
32. SACAYAĞI: A triple iron rod which is placed on the tandır and under the cooking pot.
33. ŞAKŞAK: A wooden spoon.
34. SAÇAK: A hand towel, dish towel..
35. SAHAN: A copper platter.
36. SAVAN: A leather mat that goes under the sofra cloth while eating on the floor.
37. SİNDİK: A ventilation hole opened in the tandır to allow it to burn well.
38. SİNİ: A broad, low-edged copper tray.
39. SİTİL: A small bucket.
40. SOKU: A carved stone basin used for pounding bulgur, garlic, etc.
41. ŞİRANE: The place where grapes are crushed to extract their juice.
42. ŞİRELÂNİ: A large copper kettle for boiling şira.
43. ÜZLÜK: A small clay vessel.
44. VALELEK: Flour sieve.
45. OKLAA: Oklava, a long thin rolling pin used to make yufka.
46. ÖZÜK: A butter container with a glazed interior.
47. TAKA: A cupboard with no doors, used in gardens.
48. TULUK: A lamb or goat skin used to store cheese or butter.
49. YAĞRIK: A wooden board used for cutting or chopping meat.
50. YARIK: An implement, made of wood and with a stone handle, used for pounding meat.
51. FONİ, BASKI: A tool used to press the cheese as it is being put into a skin bag for storage/aging. (1,7)

LOCAL NAMES FOR CERTAIN FOODSTUFFS AND DISHES IN DEVELİ

1. AĞIZ: Colostrum, cooked until thick.
2. ALACA: Grapes just beginning to ripen.
3. ALIÇ: Myrtle fruit.
4. AŞ: Soup.
5. AŞIK: The bone which emerges from the loin of goat or mutton.
6. BALDIRCAN: Eggplant.
7. AVCAR: Spices.
8. BAR: The mold that forms around the o pening of pickle/brine containers.
9. BAŞŞAK: The skins and stems remaining after grapes are pressed.
10. BEZİ: A lump of dough.
11. ETLİ PİDE: Cıvıklı.
12. ÇAMAN: Çemen, the spice mixture used to coat pastırma.
13. ÇIVINDIRIK: The most useless portions of meat.
14. ÇALKALAMA: Ayran, made from churning yogurt and water.
15. ÇOR: Extremely salty.
16. ÇÖKELİK: unsalted cheese.
17. ÇÖREK: A type of tandır bread.
18. DAMLAMA: The grape juice that leaks as molasses is being made.
19. DİĞREMEK: To place withered vegetables etc in a cold place or sprinkle them with water to restore their freshness.
20. DİLİ TATARI: Lightly cooked food.
21. EĞAA: Ribs.
22. ENĞİL ZAMANI: The time in spring when the grape vines are being to leaf out.
23. FERİK: Chicken, young rooster.
24. GÖZLÜK: Bulgur or rice added to vegetable dishes.
25. EŞGAMUR: Bread yeast.
26. ŞALAK: Unripe watermelon.
27. HAMIKESILMEK: The addition of ashes to molasses as it is boiling, which causes the sediment to settle to the bottom of the cauldron.
28. SÖVÜRTME: Kebab.
29. KAKIRDAK: Cracklings, left behind after sheep tail fat has been salted and rendered.
30. KALLE: A dish prepared from the hard parts of cabbage, cooked with bulgur.
31. KABCIK: Fruit peels.
32. KAVURGA: Sauteed wheat, chickpeas.
33. KETE: A type of poğaça made from yeasted dough.
34. KÖFTER: A “fruit leather” made from molasses, wheat starch and spices.
35. KUNDAK: A large bunch of grapes.
36. KÜNCÜ: Sesame.
37. KÜNCÜLÜ: A bread ring with sesame.
38. MADEMIŞ: Parsley.
39. MAYAHOŞ: Tart.
40. MIRÇIMIŞ: At the point of spoilage.
41. ÖLEMEK: To water down yogurt for making ayran.
42. PÜÇÜKLÜ: Carrog.
43. PÜR: Scallions
44. SEĞEYAĞ: Clarified butter
45. SIZGIT: Meat cooked in its own fat, stored for winter use.
46. İRİŞGİLIK: The filling for sucuk.
47. SULUZIRTLAN: A dish that has not absorbed its water completely (as in rice or bulgur).
48. ŞEMŞAMER: Sunflower.
49. ŞİRE: Grape juice.
50. ŞOY: The floury cooking water remaining after boiling mantı or pasta.
51. TAPSIMAK: To be about to spoil (for meats and other foods); to smell like earth.
52. ÇIĞ: Cream (1- 7)

BIBLIOGRAPHY

1. Ahmet Gürlek, Memleketim Develi (Develi, my Home), İzmir, 1975.
2. Doç. Dr. Neşet Arslan, Kayseri’nin Vatan Köyü’nde Yenen Yabani Bitkiler (Wild Plants Eaten in the Village of Vatan, Kayseri), 1985,
T.F.A.

SOURCE

1. Dudu Yılmaz, 1954, grade school, housewife.
2. Asiye Yılmaz, 1960, grade school, housewife.
3. Ayşe Yılmaz, 83 yaşında, literate, housewife.
4. Hayriye Yılmaz, 56 yaşında, literate, housewife.
5. Memet Yılmaz, 48 yaşında, literate, farmer.

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