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Refined Tastes in a Refined Place: Eating Habits in the Ottoman Palace During the 15th-17th Centuries
 
Arif Bilgin
 

19 DBŞM, 10511, p. 18.

20 Cyril and Methodius Library (Sofia), Defter Fonu nr. 46, vr. 26b.

21 MAD 2003, p. 70.

22 KK, 7274, p. 60

23MAD 958, p. 54.

24 MAD 958, p. 54.

25 MAD 958, p. 54.

26 MAD 5095, p. 35.

27 MAD 7502, p. 35.

29 We know that three types of pide were made in the palace during the reign of Mehmet the Conqueror: spinach, squash and cheese. Eggs were also used in the making of pide. See: Ahmed Refik, "Fâtih Devrine Aid Vesîkalar", TOEM, VIII-XI/49-62 (İstanbul 1988), p. 24-26. Krş. Barkan, "İstanbul Saraylarına...", p. 196-197, 200, 206.

30 For its recipe, see: Yerasimos, Sultan Sofraları, p. 136.

31 For three separate kitchen registers from the 15th, 16th and 17th centuries in which these baked goods can be found, see: KK 7094, p. 10; Barkan, "İstanbul Saraylarına...", p. 143; D. BŞM 10525, p. 20. In addition to şekerli nukul, versions with almonds, pistachios, pine nuts, cinnamon and clove were served at the circumcision celebrations for Mehmet the Conqueror’s sons Bayezid and Mustafa (Tursun Bey, Târîh-i Ebü'l-Feth, ed. Mertol Tulum, Istanbul 1977, p. 88).

32 D. BŞM 10525, p. 20 vd.

33 For example during the 1637-1638 fiscal year, while the fodula oven was provıded wıth eight kıyye each of sesame and nigella seed, the has oven was given 28 kıyye of sesame and 14 kıyye of nigella (MAD 5095, p. 27). During the reign of Mehmet the Conqueror, has bread also contained tail fat and fennel seed (Barkan, "İstanbul Saraylarına...", p. 190, 254, 256). Although Michel Baudier says that the dough for has bread was made with goat’s milk (related by Hrand D. Andreasyan: Eremya Çelebi Kömürciyan, İstanbul Tarihi: XVII. Asırda İstanbul, Istanbul 1988, p. 115, Andreasyan's note), nothing to support this claim has been found in any archival document.

34 In this vein we may also mention Tursun Bey’s work (Ahmed Refik, "Fâtih Devrine Aid Vesîkalar", p. 1-58; Barkan, "İstanbul Saraylarına...", p. 1-380; Tursun Bey, Târîh-i Ebü'l-Feth, p. 88-89) which contains the daily provisions during the end of Mehmet the Conqureror’s reign, and the foods eaten at the circumcision celebrations for his sons Bayezid and Mustafa; a document thought to belong to the 16th century and listing the foods to be served the palace lords through the four seasons (Nil Sarı, "Osmanlı Sarayında Yemeklerin...", p. 245-255), and the records of the feasts given in 1539 for the circumcision celebrations for Süleyman the Magnificent’s sons Bayezid and Cihangir (Semih Tezcan, Bir Ziyafet Defteri, Istanbul 1998), and for Murad III’s son, prince Mehmed (Gelibolulu Mustafa Âlî, Câmi‘u'l-Buhûr Der-Mecâlis-i Sûr, edited by Ali Öztekin, Ankara 1996).

35 Stefanos Yerasimos, Sultan Sofraları-15. ve 16. Yüzyılda Osmanlı Saray Mutfağı, Istanbul 2002.

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