Ottoman Kitchen Organization
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Refined Tastes in a Refined Place: Eating Habits an the Ottoman Palace During the 15th-17th Centuries

36 For the recipe for the dish called salma for example, see p. 64.

37 For a recipe for stuffed apples, see p 66.

38 For tüffâhiye for example, which takes its name from “apple,” see p. 74.

39 a. g. e., p. 53.

40 a. g. e., p 51.

41 For these registers, see: Barkan, "İstanbul Saraylarına...", p. 88-103, 187-280.

42 From an entry made on June 4, 1579 (Başbakanlık Osmanlı Arşivi Mühimme Defterleri (MD) 36, p. 342/898), which makes it clear that certain items brought from Egypt were not ordered in advance: “Memorandum to the Lord of Egypt and the financial administrator… Mektup gönderüp bundan akdem Matbah-ı âmire mühimmâtîçün emîn mührü ile taleb olunan ba‘zı edviye (şifâlı bitki) ve şeker ve gayrî tedârik olunup, lâkin ba‘zı şimdiye değin taleb olunmamışdır diyü bildirmişsin. İmdi Matbah-ı âmireye lâzım ve mühim olan ne ise tedârik olunup gönderilmesin emr idüp...".

43 Mektup gönderüp bundan akdem Matbah-ı âmire mühimmâtîçün emîn mührü ile taleb olunan ba‘zı edviye (şifâlı bitki) ve şeker ve gayrî tedârik olunup, lâkin ba‘zı şimdiye değin taleb olunmamışdır diyü bildirmişsin. İmdi Matbah-ı âmireye lâzım ve mühim olan ne ise tedârik olunup gönderilmesin emr idüp...".

44 a. g. e., p. 229, 241.

45 Tomatoes are still called kavata in some villages in the Konya region. Thanks to Necmi Uyanık for this information.

46 Redhouse, Turkish and English Lexicon, p. 1478; Şemseddin Sâmi, Kamûs-ı Türkî, p. 1086; Diran Kelekyan, Kamus-ı Fransevi (Dictionnaire Turc-Francais), İstanbul 1329, p. 974. While Hüseyin Kâzım Kadri (Türk Lûgati, İstanbul 1943, p. 837), defines kavata as a “familiar bitter vegetable in the Solanaceae,” Zenker (Jules Theodore Zenker, Dictionnaire Turc-Arabe-Persan, Leipzig 1866, p. 711) describes it as an “unripe, very bitter love apple (tomato).”

47 On this date, 34,200 kavatas were bought for the palace (KK 7286, p. 12). Tülay Artan, who devotes a significant part of her work to the kavata, says based on the registers she studied that the kavata is mentioned for the first time in 1694 ("Aspects of the Ottoman Elite's Food Consumption: Looking for 'Staples', 'Luxuries', and 'Delicacies in a Changing Century",Consumption Studies and the History of the Ottoman Empire, 1550-1922, Albany 2000, p. 112); however this is erroneous.

48 See for example: D. BŞM 10822, p. 51 (1704); D. BŞM 10947, p. 30 (1716); D. BŞM 32145, p. 8 (late 18th century).

49 Kamûs-ı Türkî, p. 1086.

50 D. BŞM 10860, p. 5) shows that the kavata was used in pickles.

51 For the names of these foods containing tomatoes, see: Artan, "Aspects of the Ottaman Elite...", p. 183-184, note 31.

52

53 For market price entries for these products, see the following register: İstanbul Müftülüğü Şeriyye Sicilleri Arşivi, İstanbul Mahkemesi, no. 201. The register contains entries from the late 18th century until the mid-19th century. Mübahat Kütükoğlu mentions this register in one her works ("XVIII. Yüzyıl Sonlarında İstanbul Piyasası", Tarih Boyunca İstanbul Semineri, Bildiriler, İstanbul 1989, s. 231-238).

54 Mutton, though in different amounts, was part of nearly all meals at the palace, while during the middle of Süleyman I’s reign, lamb was only given to state officials ranking from chamberlain to sultan, or to members of the dynasty (Ottoman Archive of the Prime Ministry, Bâb-ı Defterî Başmuhâseebe Kalemi Dosya Tasnifi (D. BŞM File) no. 1/56).

55 In the early 18th century, the spice mixture for sucuk consisted of cinnamon, clove, cardamom (Elettaria cardamomum), black pepper and cumin.

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