Macedonian Cuisine

Anatolia and Roumelia is a region where important culinary exchange took place.  Due to the large migration to Anatolia caused for the cuisines to amalgamate and become even richer.

Dishes don’t get created by just throwing in a few ingredients and make up something new. There are important factors that determine the existence of a cuisine and its richness. These factors are usually social factors. However the most important one is geography. Secondly is the taste buds built in the genetic codes of people and historical ties. 

As you may already know, there are lots of nations in Roumelia region, however the oldest one is the Macedonians. If you happen to go to Skopje today, you will see, not very far from each other; a statue of Philip II, father of the Great Alexander, and the minaret of the Sultan Murat Mosque. These two objects really summarize the short history of the Macedonians. Today Macedonia is a sovereign country, however Greece is having a hard time accepting this and considers Macedonia as one of its states. Macedonia is a country that was built by the man who changed the world, the Great Alexander. Later on there is the Macedonia of the Byzantines. If you go and visit the city of Ohrid, you will see a lot of monasteries from Byzantine period. Byzantine period was followed by the Ottoman period. In fact during the reign of Sultan Murat II, the cities of Skopje, Bitola, Ohrid and Tetovo have prospered and became important cities of the empire. Macedonia, used to be a part of Yugoslavia after the World War II. Today it is a sovering country located on the same land.

Macedonians are always known to be very tall people. These tall people are very keen on eating and drinking. When a noble man is placed inside a tomb, after his death, he was accompanied by a box that contained various kitchenware such as plates and bowls. In the box found near the tomb of Philip II, there were similar plates and bowls, that are on display at the Macedonian museum in Thessaloniki. In this museum we also see many clues that gives us important information about the cuisine of that period. For example there is a frying pan called “tigan,” wine related artifacts and plates used for fruit service.

When Macedonians have visitors for dinner, they would prepare a feast called “akşamlık” which consists of soup, sauteed meat dish, white bean stew with meat, and “büryan” (meat and rice dish). Büryan is a very special dish of the whole Balkan region.  Its rice cooked together with meat and served with sauteed onions. This dish is baked slowly in the oven for a long time.  The guests are always served the best part of the meat. A dish called “samusa” or “samsa” is also offered on the side. This is basically baked dough that gets a yoghurt sauce on top. The dinner always ends with a splendid meal.

In the Balkan region there are about 15-16 different nations, therefore 15-16 different languages. Each of those nations have a specific cuisine unique to them. The big migration that started after the Balkan wars, caused these nations to carry with them their food culture. However the food of the immigrant communities and the food of their original land, although showing some similarities, are not the same.

The indispensable part of Balkan cuisine are the “böreks.”  In the Macedonian culture they are generally referred to as “pide.” The word “börek” only implies the type made with ground beef.

Here are some other types of dished from Macedonian cuisine;

“Petla” is a type of layered savoury pastry. The layers are consisted of crepes, that are dipped in salted water and layered with cottage cheese called “ekşimik” and butter between the layers. Ekşimik is considered a very important ingredient in Macedonian cuisine and is readily available in almost every household. It is made from curdled milk. The most popular way to consume it is, to fry it together with some sliced green peppers and serve it for breakfast or as a light summer meal. 

Perfırlena (which means to throw), is made from a dough that contains eggs and yeast. This dough is stretched to a size bigger than the tray used for baking. Melted butter and “lor” cheese is spread between the layers. Finally the pieces that were overflowing from the tray gets thrown back to the tray, hence the name. After the dish is baked, sauteed onions are placed in the middle and gets eaten by tearing with hands. 

“Damat paçası”, literally translated from groom’s cuffs, it is a typical dish made by the bride’s side of the family for the grooms side. Usually made with leftover baklava dough, it is basically a savoury pastry without a filling. The top part gets a bechamel like sauce made with yoghurt, eggs, vinagar and salt and served with roasted lamb.

Soda bread is also one of the typical breads of Macedonian cuisine. It is a typical bread dough that also has baking soda and also flavored with some sort of seasonal wild herbs.

“Tükenmez” (never ends) is a very popular drink that is made in various places all around Anatolia. It is also a popular drink made by the Macedonians. It is a fermented drink made from fruits. The vital part is to ferment the fruits in the correct way. It can be made with whatever fruits readily available at home. In a large jar, the fruits are layered with sugar and then filled with water. Lid is closed tightly and left to ferment for about 15 days. The drink never ends because, water and sugar is added after every time its consumed. This is one of the good examples of how geography plays a role in determining the cuisine.

Pickled peppers in tomato sauce and vinegar is also a type of pickle that is quite unique to the Macedonian cuisine.

*The text is a translated transcription of food culture researcher and journalist Nedim Atilla’s seminar “From Roumelia II: Macedonian Cuisine” that was held at TCF-Culinary Arts Center on 17 December 2012.