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Wild Greens Popular in Bodrum

Black Lovage Salad
Serves 4

1 bunch of black lovage stems with leaves cut in 3-4 cm lengths
1 bunch large black lovage stems, chopped
2-3 T olive oil
2-3 T lemon juice
2 cloves garlic, crushed with salt
Sea salt

Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add the lovage and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally. Cook about 10-12 minutes, and test for doneness once and a while. I prefer it well cooked and soft, but you may like it firmer. When it is cooked, pour into a colander, run cold water over it, and put it on a serving plate. Mix lemon, oil and garlic and drizzle over the top, then cover and allow to stand for half an hour to absorb the sauce.

Mallow with Yogurt
Serves 4

½ kg tender young mallow leaves
1 small onion, chopped
1 c strained yogurt, beaten
3-4 cloves garlic, crushed
2 T olive oil
Salt, a bit of red flake pepper

Wash and chop the mallow. Put the oil and onion in a pan and sauté 5-6 minutes, then add the mallow, and sauté till soft; add the salt and mix. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly, then place on a serving dish. In a bowl, mix the yogurt and garlic and pour over the top. Drizzle olive oil over the top and sprinkle with red pepper.

Salad of Boiled Greens
Serves 4

2 bunches of greens suitable for boiling (wild radish, wild mustard or wild chicory)
¼ c olive oil
2 c crushed garlic
Juice of 1 lemon
Salt to taste

Clean and wash the greens, then bring a generous amount of water to a boil and add the greens. Cook till soft, then pour into a colander and immediately douse with cold water to prevent them losing their color. When they have cooled just a bit, chop coarsely and place on a serving dish. In another bowl, mix the oil, lemon juice, garlic and salt, pour over the greens and mix well, serve. If you will not serve the salad immediately, do not add the lemon, because it changes the color of the herbs. A dressing of only olive oil, garlic and salt can be made as well, or you can make a tarator sauce with walnuts as well.

When boiling greens, the following points should be noted: First, the water should be at a rolling boil. To maintain the brilliant color of the greens, keep the pot uncovered and cook for a short time at high heat. Drain the cooked greens, rinse and use any way you like. If you will add lemon to the salad, add it only when you are about to serve it; this way you will maintain their color.

Sautéed Wild Asparagus with Eggs

2 bunches of wild asparagus, with hard parts removed
(you may use bryony or greenbriar as well)
1-2 cloves garlic
A generous amount of virgin olive oil
Salt, a bit of red flake pepper
2 eggs
A little water, if needed

Break the tender ends off the asparagus at 2-3 cm intervals until you reach the point where they no longer break easily, and discard the hard part. Wash the asparagus well and drain. Pour olive oil into a pan and add the garlic, heat and stir for a minute, then add the asparagus, salt and red pepper and cook on medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the asparagus is tender. When they are tender, add two beaten eggs and stir together for a few minutes, and serve with fresh sliced bread, which you’ll want to dip into the oil. This recipe comes from Naime Teyze from Gölköy village near Bodrum, who treated me to beautifully sautéed wild greens that she collected herself. (Besides the Aegean markets, wild asparagus can also be found in the Tuesday market in Kadıköy, Istanbul.)

Rolled Börek with Poppy Greens
Makes 16 pieces

4 sheets of yufka (Turkish-style phyllo)
1 bunch (1/2 kg) poppy greens, or other wild greens
1 bunch mixed greens (nettles, parsley, scallions, green garlic, etc.)
200 gr çökelek (cheese curd)
Salt, red flake pepper
3 eggs
1 c milk
1 c olive oil
(You can make the börek with a mixture of olive oil and yogurt as well.)

Clean and wash the greens well, and chop finely. Place in a colander, add some salt, knead together a bit and allow to drain. If you are using scallions and green garlic, chop them as well and add them to the cheese along with the other greens.

In a bowl, mix the milk (or yogurt), eggs and oil. Cut the yufka into four strips of equal width. With a brush, spread some of the oil mixture on each piece, then a bit of the chopped greens along one edge. Starting from one end, make a long roll, then roll into a spiral, crimping the end so that the filling is sealed in. Arrange the böreks in an oiled pan, spread the remaining filing over the top, and bake in a preheated oven at 170 C for 35-40 minutes, until browned. Allow to cool slightly and serve. If you wish, you can join the böreks at the ends and arrange as a single spiral. In that case, serve in triangular slices.

The Çilek Market next to the Bodrum Post Office serves delicious böreks during every season. You can get some of these böreks and take a stroll towards the tower, and enjoy them with your tea at the Denizciler Café. The bazlama sold at the market is delicious as well.

Yellow Thistle with Chickpeas
Serves 4

½ kg yellow thistle
1 ½ c cooked chickpeas
2 onions, cut in half and sliced
2 T olive oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 T homemade tomato or pepper paste
1 c water
Sea salt, red pepper flakes

Remove the thorns and root from the yellow thistle and wash well, then cut into ½ cm thick strips. In a pot or large frying pan, sauté the onion and garlic in the olive oil for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the yellow thistle and sauté for 10 minutes, then add the remaining ingredients and cover. When the water comes to a boil, reduce heat and cook until the thistle is tender, 20-25 minutes. Serve hot.

Below is a list of the wild plants mentioned in this article, together with their Latin names and botanical families:

Turkish Name English Name Latin Name Botanical Family
Acıot Black Bryony Tamus communis Dioscoreaceae
Arapsaçi Fennel Foeniculum vulgare Apiaceae
Baldiran Black Lovage Smyrnium olusatrum Apiaceae
Bambul Black Nightshade Solanum nigrum Solanaceae
Dağ marulu Shepherd’s Purse Capsella bursa-pastoris Brassicaceae
Dağlama Yellow Crown Daisy Chrysanthemum coronarium Asteraceae
Deli Kenker İllyrian Thistle Onopordum illyricum Asteraceae
Deniz börülcesi Samphire Salicornia europaea Chenopodiaceae
Ebegümeci Mallow Malva sylvestris Malvaceae
Gelincik Corn Poppy Papaver rhoeas Papaveraceae
Hardalotu Wild Mustard Sinapis arvensis Brassicaceae
Hardalotu Wild Mustard Brassica nigra (L.) Koch Brassicaceae
Hindiba Wild Mustard Cichorium sp. Asteraceae
Kara Hindiba Dandelion Taraxacum officinale Weber Asteraceae
İsirgan Stinging Nettle Urtica dioica Urticaceae
İğnelik Cranesbill Erodium sp. Geraniaceae
Kazayaği Sicle Weed Oenanthe pimpinelloides Apiaceae
Keçikörmeni Hairy Garlic A. subhirsutum Liliaceae
Köremen Wild Leek Allium ampeloprasum Liliaceae
Kuş yüreği Chickweed Stellaria media Caryophyllaceae
Kuzukulaği Sorrel Rumex acetocella. Polygonaceae
Labada Dock Rumex sp. Polygonaceae
Sariot No English Name Opopanax hispidus Apiaceae
Semizotu Purslane Portulaca oleracea Portulacaceae
Silcan Smilax, Greenbriar Smilax aspera Liliaceae
Su Kazayaği Lesser Water Parsnip Berula erecta Apiaceae
Su teresi Watercress Nasturtium officinale Brassicaceae
Tekesakali Goatsbeard Scorzonera or Tragopogon sp. Asteraceae
Tilkişen Goatsbeard Asparagus acutifolius Liliaceae
Turpotu Wild Radish Raphanus raphanistrum Brassicaceae
Uslu Kenker Yellow Thistle Scolymus hispanicus Asteraceae

 

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